Dark Divide 300

What's up with this Police line blocking the route?

Two Officers walk up to me in my worst state - sweaty, confused and impatient. 

"Can I just squeeze by on the sidewalk for this block?"

    "This is a homicide investigation, We can't let you through. Be done in a couple hours, if you want to wait" 

"I'm in a bit of a race situation"

    "Somebody was murdered! Somebody died!"

I didn't have the energy to get emotionally invested. I was in the last mile of the Dark Divide 300, a mixed surface Bikepacking race from Olympia to Portland. In the previous 40hrs I had travelled 330 miles, climbed over 30,000ft of elevation and slept little more than 20min. 

    It was 1:10am and the only thing on my mind was finish and get some rest. My sleepy brain decided rerouting would be faster than talking my way into being arrested. Keep moving, I had to keep moving. 

    24 racers sped off from Washington´s capitol and into the rugged Gifford Pinchot forest. Smooth paved roads flow into hillbilly highways. The road is speckled with signs indicating the rough ATV route up ahead. We were heading in the wild. 

    I tried something new with my setup this race. The bulky seat bag was a problem on the pre-ride. The sway made the bike feel clumsy and was awkward on the hiking sections. I opted to swap in a much smaller road bag and reinforce with a red cam strap. The idea was to loop the strap at the seatpost and shoulder control the bike while hiking. Overall it worked great! Except I had carelessly tightened it down over the derailleur cable and was stuck in a lower gear. Spinning like mad trying to keep up with the pack until I reasoned out why I wasn't shifting correctly. Gears are dumb. 

    The roads get quiet and turn into dirt. Riders at the front of the pack slowly thin out as they settle into their pace. Big climbs start as we pass stunning views in fields of fireweed. 

    After Ashford, the route goes onto a decommissioned road into a creek crossing. Fresh piles of dirt are built up to keep traffic out. With enough speed they might make sweet jumps but I certainly lack that skill. There's like 30 of these along this stretch and so fresh! I imagine placed by a devious racer with a plan to keep their FKT safe.  

 

 Meaghan Hackinen and I toured the route a little over a week prior (spoiler alert: She’s faster than me). Which gave a lot of insight on what to expect - a huge challenge and a shot at second place. I last saw Meg climbing out of the creek crossing after Ashford. It marks the base of the first substantial climbs. 

Being at the front end of a gavel race you get to know your competitors by their tracks. Andy wore Mezcals, Becca Gravel king SKs, Meaghan's Ikons. I watched their tracks and the lines they took. Imagined what gears they were riding and whether they sat, stood or pushed. Counting out treads put me in fourth. I wanted to keep close up front and skipped resupply options and only stopped to filter water off streams. 

I did plan on a water refuel at John O'Brian's, a popup support for the race. But I somehow missed it and ended up doing thirsty and dumb short stops for water. I absolutely love filtering water off the hillside. It's also an excuse to get off the bike for a refreshing taste instead of water bottle tea. Losing momentum I begin seeking out roadside filter options. 

At the top of a gravel climb I met a guy camped out and cooking up hotdogs. Another Dark Divide popup support! He hooked me up with a dog and a couple insights as to where the other racers were. The last person through was an hour and 15min prior. I reasoned that I was losing an hour and a half every 12 hours at my current pace. 

With the sun setting I knew I wouldn't make Juniper ridge by nightfall. Which is pretty unfortunate because it's absolutely an amazing spot. To see the views during the tour was a treat and a highlight of the course. During the race - for me it was total darkness. I could see little more than the tire tracks in front of me. Sometimes with shoe prints or animal tracks over them. There's animals out there and I'm following at least three of them. 

Juniper ridge is sandy, rocky, rooted, narrow and clumsy in the daylight. I walked a lot during the night. And by walking I mean tripping over my own feet. It was getting really late, I started hearing voices in the woods but couldn't make out the words. Was I going crazy all alone in the dark? 

26 hours in and the lack of sleep was getting to me. I reasoned a 15min nap would set me straight or get me a riding partner. I got in a 12min nap before Joey caught me. I frantically packed up my blanket and rushed to keep up. But the 12min wasn't enough. I couldn't keep my eyes open. 

I planned it out in my head. 15min nap and a sprint to Trout Lake to make the grocery store first thing at 7am. Coffee and a breakfast burrito became my motivation. I caught Joey leaving Trout Lake and had to make a choice. Skip breakfast and begin the morning chase or lose 45min to 4th place?

"I started noticing voices in the woods but couldn't make out the words. Was I going crazy all alone in the dark?"

The Trout Creek Grocery store and campground serve groves of PCT through hikers. Their guest book boasted over 1000 entries this year alone. Which explained all those voices I was hearing in the woods. It also has WiFi where I checked the tracker. Andy, Meaghan and Becca were fighting for lead 52 miles ahead and I had a 20 mile gap behind me. 

The new tire tracks ahead were a reminder of how great that cup of coffee was. Joey rides a slick on the back wheel, Beast! With renewed energy I bite into the last few mountains. After 30hrs my bite is more like a gentle gnaw. I really gummed into and slobbered over those peaks. Alas, I resigned to a chill pace and enjoyed the green shady sections and cool springs. I was in 5th and 5 is a pretty cool number.   

    Panther Creek is the start of the home stretch. It's a familiar point and where I would consider my home turf begins. Just up and over one last climb, around some cool campgrounds, skirting the perimeter of a prison then bombing back down to the flat lands. I was ready to make it happen. No time for sleep, no time for pictures, I have a New Seasons parking lot to get to! 

    I've lived in the Pacific Northwest for nearly 20 years and never have I seen such striking views of Rainer, Helens, Adams and Hood. I'm grateful for experiencing this route both slow and fast. During the day and through the night - each provided a unique experience with the landscape and wildlife. 

The last 20 miles of the course are a shock to the senses as civilization creeps in. I cross into Portland close to 1:00 am. My girlfriend finished hours earlier and I'm sure she is as exhausted as I am. No way she's waiting for me. Just get it done, ride to the parking lot and get your dot to bounce and ride home. 

    Which brings us to the homicide investigation. The last leg of my journey sprouted another leg! After a quick reroute I made it to the finish around 2 am. Glanced over a mostly empty parking lot and convinced I was alone, I began to chomp into another Bob's Redmill Oat bar. Finishes are the worst. 

I hear Meaghan and my Mom shouting from across the lot. My friends from Vancouver Fixed gear showed up to see me in! And they had some taquitos from the 7-11 rollers. It was like a dream. God damn trashy delicious dream with extra mayonnaise. Pro tip, upgrade any hot case item with extra mayo.